Media Centre for Conservation Work in Madagascar

Rebecca Clark

My first view of Madagascar was from the plane: a vast expanse of green-blue landscape intersected by thick ribbons of terracotta waterways, their colour a product of the mass deforestation that causes erosion of the island’s red soil into these rivers. Our flight from Paris landed a few minutes later and I stepped out onto the heat of the runway, taking a quiet moment to absorb the fact that I had finally arrived. Here I was, miles from home, a single rucksack containing all I would need for the next three months, in the company of almost complete strangers, all of us about to embark on a ten week volunteer project with Azafady.

This moment didn't last for long. The nine of us who had flown from Paris were rushed through customs in Antananarivo's Ivato airport by some very efficient Air Madagascar staff and bundled onto the internal flight that would take us to Fort Dauphin, the main town in south-east Madagascar and Azafady's base of operations.

We spent about four weeks of the total ten here, interspersed with our time in surrounding villages in the region, and it began to feel like home. After a first, disastrous night in Lanirano, the Azafady campsite located a few kilometres out of town, in which half the group were flooded out of their tents by the tail end of the cyclone season, the group was transferred to the Mahavoky Hotel in Fort Dauphin before our first trip 'into the bush'. This proved to be a fortunate turn of events as the Mahavoky, a beautiful if shabby former missionary school, complete with huge balconies and red hibiscus growing outside, not only kept us reasonably dry in the very wet fortnight that followed, but also was centrally located and really allowed us to get to know the town. Mornings and afternoons were spent learning Malagasy, the local language, and listening to talks about the Azafady projects in the region, whilst lunch hours, evenings and days off were filled with trips to the bustling market, the white, palm lined beach (when it wasn't chucking it down) and Panorama, Fort Dauphin's gem of a nightclub which I feel I must pay homage to. I have never been anywhere like Panorama, and I am sure I never will again. Many a great night was spent there, Malagasy hits, Bob Marley and random Celine Dion tracks that you thought you'd heard the last of, pumping out of the sound system while we danced until the early hours of the morning in a sweltering room, heaving with locals and the occasional tourist.

For the bulk of the ten weeks though, we were in 'the bush' - that is to say, in the small, often isolated villages in the area around Fort Dauphin in which Azafady works. In these villages conditions were basic, but ultimately more fun as a result. No running water, but that meant we could go wash in the local rivers. No electricity, but that meant evenings spent in candlelight under the awe-inspiring milky way, telling stories or listening to one or another of the very talented guitarists we were lucky enough to have in our group.

Our days were spent working on the very diverse range of projects initiated by Azafady, but requested by locals. Projects included building latrines for the village schools, creating tree nurseries, repairing wells that Azafady had installed previously, teaching the village children about the importance of hand-washing, teeth brushing or preservation of their local environment, or simply teaching them English. I became fond of each of the villages we stayed in, but was most sad to leave the tiny village of Belavenoka, the final place we stayed. Here we had, among other things, created a vegetable garden for the school with the help of the local children, constructed 16 school benches and built three latrines as well as making friends with the village community. On our final day the villagers presented us with gifts, two chickens, ten eggs, and hand woven baskets, and the words "...we do not have much to give, but what we give comes from the heart....you have brought light to the village... " . Those words will stay with me for the rest of my life.

After Belavenoka, a final week was spent in Fort Dauphin working at Lanirano, helping to develop it into not just a campsite for volunteers but also a training centre which will showcase Azafady initiatives, and writing up reports of all we had achieved during the scheme. This week concluded with a memorable leaving party and some teary farewells to my fellow volunteers, the wonderful Azafady staff and the campsite puppies.

Here I have described just a few of the highlights of my Pioneer experience. I haven't mentioned the amazing wildlife like swivel eyed chameleons and velvety pawed lemurs, that the trip allowed me to appreciate - or the joy of walking down a village street to be greeted by a chorus of "Hello, how are you?" from children practising what you have taught them in English lessons the day before. I have countless memories of Madagascar that I shall always treasure. There were of course times when, naturally, I was desperately homesick; for my family, friends, a hot bath, even just Marmite on toast and times when I cried with sheer frustration at the injustice of the world that gives some so much and others so little. But since I have been home there hasn't been a day gone by when I haven't thought of Madagascar and my time there and how much, someday, tomorrow if I could, I would like to return.